FAQ - Frequently-asked questions

1. Remove any excess ash from the hearth;
2. Open the primary and secondary air adjuster, fully open the flue gas adjuster, if the firebox is a prefabricated or one-piece fireplace.
3. For lighting with low emissions: prepare 3-4 logs of dry wood with a cross-section of approximately 5 x 5 cm and a length of about 20 cm to be placed on the base of the hearth; 6-8 pieces with a cross-section of approximately. 2x2 and a length of approx. 15 cm to be placed like a “tower” on top of the larger logs; lastly, the item to facilitate ignition (chips or firelighter), matches;
4. Layer the logs perpendicularly and at a certain distance from each other by placing the larger logs at the bottom and the finer ones at the top;
5. Place the firelighter in the centre of the tower at the penultimate layer of wood;
6. Light with a match;
7. Allow the fire to develop, and only when the flames have died down and formed a bed of embers, reload the appliance in the normal way and regulate the flue gas adjusters or combustion air adjusters as indicated in the appliance manual. Never use petrol, paraffin, alcohol, or other similar liquids to start the fire.

When a sufficient bed of embers has formed, proceed to load with more fuel:

• ensure that any adjusters or flue gas regulating valves, on the appliance or in the system, are open;
• open the door slowly to avoid smoke escaping into the room and if necessary arrange the embers;
• place new wood logs (preferably without any bark) on top of the embers with the greatest surface area possible in contact with the embers;
• close the door and increase the inflow of combustion air for the time required to rekindle the flame;
• If necessary, regulate any adjusters or flue gas regulating valves, on the appliance or in the system.

It is strongly recommended never to use petrol, paraffin, alcohol, or other similar liquids to rekindle the fire.

The characteristics and the quality of the wood can greatly affect the length of time between loads, the efficiency, emissions into the atmosphere and the correct operation of the appliance. Burning wood that is too damp:

• wastes most of the calories due to evaporation of the water it contains;
• compromises the good performance;
• increases fuel consumption and reduces efficiency;
• will not ensure normal operation of the appliance;
• soils the glass considerably glass;
• causes considerable encrusting of the walls of the combustion chamber and of the flue.

Suitable timbers are those in the family of strong broad-leafed trees such as beech, hornbeam, oak, robinia, ash, birch, maple, elm. Timbers that are not resinous but are strong, heavy hardwoods are preferred because they provide the hearth with sustained, persistent flames. The following may be considered as not recommendable: the family of conifers, willow, poplar, alder. They tend to be resinous and create more soot and few embers; they crackle a lot and require more frequent cleaning of the appliance and the flue. In addition they have a soft, lightweight wood that provides the hearth with a lively flame but of short duration, with a greater consumption of wood compared to equal power.

Never use damp wood, waste materials (rubbish), waste paper, plywood or chipboard, fibrous panels, packaging, painted wood or veneers with synthetic materials, plastic laminates, cardboard, milk cartons.
You must not use liquid fuels of any kind. All of these or similar materials may be hazardous or may damage the firebox and the flue and pollute the environment.

It is advisable to use well-seasoned and dry wood with less than 20% moisture.
Freshly-cut wood has a 50% lower energy power compared to dry wood.
To obtain wood that is ready to burn, it needs to be dried outdoors, and protected against precipitation, for at least 2 years after cutting.
As can be seen from the table below, the higher the moisture level the lower the calorific value.

Using unsuitable pellets may lead to some problems, such as:

• premature clogging of the brazier and flue gas extraction ducts;
• an increase in fuel consumption and a decrease in efficiency;
• the tendency to excessively soil the glass in a very short time;
• the production of unburned granules and heavy ash.

On the market, there are various types of pellets available with qualities and characteristics that change according to the processes and types of wood used.
Since the characteristics and quality of the pellets can greatly affect the length of time between top-ups, the efficiency and correct operation of the appliance, it is advisable to use quality pellets.
 

It is essential that wood is positioned and stored in ventilated spaces that are free from moisture. Outdoor sheds, garages or basements are fine as long as they are well ventilated. Considering that exposure to the sun helps with drying, it is preferable to position the wood outside, and if possible, to the south of the house. You do not need large areas, even 4 square metres may be sufficient.
It is good idea to build the pile of wood starting with the thicker and sturdier logs, proceeding upwards to a maximum height which, for practical reasons, should not be more than one and a half metres.
When the wood is outdoors, it may also be a good suggestion to cover the pile with a nylon cloth, making sure, however, that you leave the sides free so as to encourage air circulation. Lastly, if possible you should avoid putting the wood directly on the floor or ground; it is a good idea to rest the pile on a wooden pallet or perhaps some old beams to facilitate better seasoning and air circulation.

When pellets are stored inappropriately, they risk becoming damp, and moisture is in fact the main risk factor for their quality. It is essential, therefore, to choose a ventilated, dry and well-sheltered place to store them.
Pellets are normally sold in sealed plastic bags, so you can store them in your garage, or even in a closet as long as it is free from mould problems or excessive moisture. It is advisable not to place the bags of pellets directly on the ground, and if possible, use wooden pallets to create an a plinth. Another precaution would be not to place the bags directly against the wall, but always leave at least a few centimetres to allow air circulation.